Shopping, Brodders and smelly fish

We can't quite believe we have been back for almost a week, it is funny how quickly the... how can I put it... "quirks" of living aboard become normality again, like the lack of decent bed, digging in lockers for clothes and just about everything other, donning jackets and hats for the walk across the icy car park to the clubhouse for an early morning shower. I'm painting them in a much worse light than need be, we honestly don't think twice about it after being back aboard for more than a few hours. 

Northern Lights in Bjarkoy

We were both really pleased to have got in a little excursion to nearby island Bjarkoy and spend a few nights there, we had never thought we would have the weather to get out and around at this time of year, being the only leisure boat around too makes it all the more special. We took note on our journey back of a few possible fishing grounds and hope to exploit that as much as possible too over the coming weeks, its cod season in Northern Norway and free food is always good! The disadvantage of fishing is the cooking, cooking fish in such a small area as the boat as we have learnt very well from previous experience gives the boat an interesting odour, I've never noticed "Febreeze: Fish Room Spray" before, but hey I might be on to a winner, don't pinch my idea Febreeze!! Nonetheless the smell really hangs about, so we in general try to bbq fish which might be more tricky at this time of year... We have been kindly allowed use of the clubroom for cooking, but don't plan to subject them to that either! 

If only you could see us now, we are sprightly skipping through the icy paths with all the agility of a nimble mountain goat! Well, not quiet, but we have managed to half our time on the "commute" to Harstad now we have Brodders (spikes on the bottom of our shoes), we are a little concerned on there durability but while they last they certainly are helping! 

Watching from the warmth of the wheelhouse today we saw some of the boat club guys set up some Christmas lights, looks great! Christmas has certainly reached the shops too with Christmas decorations on sale in ever window, something we have never seen before is Christmas lights designed to be hung from flagpoles... It would be fair to say that almost ever house and many businesses have a flagpole outside and proudly fly the Norwegian flag so its no wonder that these lights are popular, I doubt you could sell more than a handful in the UK though! 

Christmas decorations at sea, a coloured water spray

Shops here are preparing for Black Friday sales, I doubt we will be seeing the insane crowd sizes like in America though, presuming that to be the case we will likely make our way in to town tomorrow. I'm afraid we aren't really chasing any bargains; no room for a 65 inch tv but just buying a few cans of chopped tomatoes and a packet of chips for the weekend! 

Christmas lights at the Marina

A few hours well spent in Harstad Library

Shopping in Norway is quite different to what we are used with in the UK, and for this comparison sake I'm going to use the mainland UK (Papay Co-op is too special to compare!). The main supermarkets like Rema 1000, Coop, Kiwi etc which I guess are the equivalent of a Tesco, Coop or Asda don't sell the same kinds of things. Supermarkets here are grocery stores, there will be maybe one or two (literally) electronic items which tends to be maybe a food processor and a vaccum, if you want the kind of electronics you would usually buy in a British supermarket you have to go to an electronic store. They really are about groceries here, with the exception of lightbulbs and wool... I'm not sure why but they all seem to stock an amazingly large selection of wool. Plastic bags like in Scotland are bought for the equivalent of 10p and are actually very thick and last a lot of shops. Alcohol over 5% as mentioned before are only sold in the state run liquor stores, so last minute bottles of wine etc are out of the question. Shops are generally closed on Sundays with the exception of some of the much smaller grocery stores. Everything we have bought here has been very tasty, own brand produce is great quality and most things seem to avoid the high numbers of added E numbers etc you find in a lot of the food in the UK. Having been here now for so many months we have got used to these changes in shopping habits and actually found it strange being back in the UK shops.
Beyond shopping though we still have a lot to learn and appreciate, bring it on! ☺

Winter Jaunt to Gammelhamn

We hadn't actually moved the boat in almost 7 weeks, funny how quickly the boat can begin to feel like a static home only reminded we are on the water by the very occasional wake or wave. The berth we are in in Harstad is so well sheltered, squeezed between two larger boats; our berth is protected from one side by land and the other by the 4 other pontoons of boats so we are spared the worst of the waves and wash, forgetting you are on a boat is easy.
With another calm morning we chose to take our little home out to sea, get back in to the swing of it! One of the highlights in Harstad as a winter berth for us is that it is surrounded by several of the lovely spots we investigated throughout summer, so as and when weather allows we might be able to revisit some of these again. 

With that in mind we got the boat ready, converting the lounge to wheelhouse again we started the engines in -1C, poor things ☃! Amazingly they started without too much trouble and soon warmed up to their usual temperatures, a quick walk to Rema 1000 for a few bites for the barbecue and we were ready to go. 

We had looked at the forecast and getting to Gammelhamn looked very possible without much uncomfortable seas, the area where the marina is in near Harstad is very sheltered from most directions of wind so can give a false sense of comfort. As we headed north of the point at Trondenes we were hit with a side sea which followed us the entire stretch to Gammelhamn, despite early in the journey there being no real wind we guess that getting calm seas at this time of year won't be as easy as we found in summer! 

Either way it was lovely to be back on the boat moving around, besides one or two working boats we were certainly the only pleasure boat around. The route to Gammelhamn from Harstad we have done a few times now, the causeway/bridge set up we had seen weeks ago when we last past has moved on a long way since then and looks not far from complete. The marina at Gammlehamn is very quiet only a few local boats remains most having been taken up for the winter, the shower/toilet block which is shared with the campsite is now left entirely to us too, can't say we blame people for not camping at this time of year! 

It still comes as a shock each day just how short the daylight hours are, the sun now only rising around 10.10am and setting around 1.10pm, makes moving in daylight hours more tricky, there is a reasonable amount of twilight though. As I write this its 2.15pm and there is still enough light to see by, I wouldn't fancy attempting to read a paper outside for many more minutes though, mind you at below zero I can't say I fancy reading a paper outside at all!!
We got to Gammelhamn in the last of the light and after tying up we threw a few extra layers on and headed off with bright torches to the BBQ hut in the hills, unfortunately despite being frequent visitors we don't seem to have mastered the art of actually finding the hut, in black dark that is not any easier! So after getting lost in the forest having taken a wrong turn off the path (we guess it wasn't a short cut after all!!) we could see with our torches the high point on the hill and using it as a marker along with a GPS coordinate on the phone we managed to find the hut! 

Disappearing in to the forest with a saw we found some already dead trees and hauled them back to cut up for burning, shortly after we were warming up enjoying a burger around the fire, excellent! 

Several hours and calories later it was time to get back to the boat. We seemed to find an easier route down the hill only stopping a few times to look at the merry dancers making it back to the boat around 10pm, well worth the jaunt out from Harstad. 
Today we are still in gammelhamn, we found another nice walk out of the village taking us to a little hut at a small lake, the lake frozen solid reflecting the last glimers of sunlight. We will probably head back to Harstad tomorrow during light hours if the weather allows. Our main agenda when we get back to Harstad is to hunt the various sporting shops for "Brodder" ie spikes for the bottom of our shoes... We have read that mostly younger people think they are for older people, but its easier on the boat look uncool than to try getting in to the bed with crutches...So Brodder here we come (albeit at a slow, slippery, unsteady rate!) 

Bergsfjord, Finnmark county

We enjoyed our time in Skjervoy so much that we put a serious enquiry in to the possibility of staying there for an extended time in the winter.

Leaving Skjervoy

Yesterday though we had the opportunity with weather to head round the corner in to Finnmark, we have to get to Alta over the next few weeks to pick up our heater which had been south near Oslo getting fixed.

Snow on hills, sounds like it won't be long until this is topped up

One of a handful of boats we saw in Finnmarks waters

Sad to leave Skjervoy but excited to reach Finnmark, we left just before midday when the sea had calmed down. As we previously mentioned to round the figurative corner that marks the end of Troms county and into Finmark there is another passage completely open to the wrath of the sea. With a small weather window we followed the near windless weather that kept the confused swell manageable for the 30 miles passage.

A beauty of its own the stark barrenness of the mountains and cliffs

A lone house looking out towards the North Pole

We were vaguely heading towards Bergsfjord a village in mainland Finmark that is only accessible by boat. Looking at charts and books the village seemed the best bet in the time we had available. As we have headed further north, especially past Tromso, the sense of being alone at sea has increased. Not only in the lack of towns and villages, but in fact any signs of life anywhere. We have often contented with other boats of all sizes from ferries to fishing boats and pleasure boats whilst we were further south, but on this passage there were none of the later and only a couple of fishing boats. One cargo ship plied the indrelia, the north south shipping lane heading for Svolvear in the Lofoten Islands and then we were totally alone in an undulating world bordered by hills and mountains

Coaster passing us by

Approaching Bergsfjord

A metropolis compared to the areas we have seen 

Arriving in Bergsfjord just before 18:00 and only a few minutes before sunset, (just over 11 hours of having the sun above the horizon now and in a few short weeks we will say goodbye to the sun completely until late January) we tied up to a space in a small marina. The village has cars and about 6 miles of road but no road access over the mountains to the rest of Norway. Everything goes in and out by ferry. We went for a short walk in the rain taking our first steps in Finnmark. The village looked very pretty even in the rain and grey evening light...we hope to explore more over the next few days.

Pontoons at Bergsfjord

Calm before the storm

Quickstep was quite exposed on the outer guest pontoon and as the wind increased at around 5am we made the decision to move her to one of the more sheltered finger berths. Unsure if this was privately owned or could be used by guests we walked to the shop this morning to look for local advice. As we had suspected the berth was private but might not be needed at this time or we could move to another which would definitely be available. Speaking to the kind people at the shop we were offered free use of their apartment to save us sitting aboard on the wet and windy day, another act of amazing kindness. We have now moved during a lull in the wind to the other berth, the scenery is beautiful and we are considering wrapping out and heading in to the rain to explore.    

On the move again

Yesterday as the alarm rang at 4am after hours of sleep which could be counted on the fingers of one hand we lugged ourselves out of bed to get ready for the several hours drive to Evenes airport, where we would drop Daniel's Mum and Sister off. 

With our goodbyes said we drove the remaining distance in to Harstad town centre to drop off the car in time for catching the speed ferry back to Andorja. We were in to Harstad in plenty of time for the ferry which only left at 3pm, so we made use of the time to buy some paint for the wheelhouse, something we will have to wait for a sunny day to do. 

Fortunately throughout the whole of Daniel's families visit the weather was beautiful, unfortunately for us the weather seems to have turned perhaps more seasonal, it is Autumn after all. So far we have been aboard in Spring, Summer and now Autumn too, each one of these brings their own highlights. The early snow falls could be any time now, we can also expect a windier season, forcing us to spend more time in port. 

As we speeded across the fjord on the speed ferry toward Andorja we discussed our aims to head further north before winter, it was obvious to us that if we hoped to get north at this time of year we would have to take any weather window we were offered, using calms for moving instead of relaxing in one area, a shame but a sacrifice that has to be made. 

With this in mind we stepped it out on the walk from the ferry port at one end of the island to Laupstad, as soon as we reached the boat starting the engines and preparing to move. 

There was only about two hours of light left and as we pulled away the mist and rain set in so we decided to spend the night in Engenes (next to the speed ferry port) on the same island. At only around 5 miles it might not seem worth it, but every mile counts and it was on route, it was a good short move to get us back in to the swing of things too. 

Tied up to the visitors pontoon in Engenes we sorted the boat out for an early night. One of the most exciting parts of this was getting the bed ready, this because Daniels mum had kindly brought with her our new mattress covers. What's so exciting about mattress covers I hear you ask, well we had looked online for the cheapest possible duvet covers to use as covers, it just so happens the cheapest we could find were these super cool (!) One Direction ones!! So Quickstep is looking a little like a teenage girls bedroom, but hey, it was worth the save...maybe! Certainly no tours aboard, what can I say, Daniel's a huge 1D fan!! 

With 1 Direction in bed we joined them for a few hours before an early start at 6am to make the most of the weather, the promised force 1 doesn't seem to have come but we set out anyway in to a rougher sea than we are used to with several options of stops if we need it. As I type we are heading between Dyroya and mainland Norway, with plans at the moment to spend tonight somewhere on Senja. Updates and photos to follow tonight when we stop.

A short "Holiday" in Norway!

It has been lovely to share the beauty of Norway with Daniels family, we have been lucky enough to have had some incredible weather for them too. The sun has provided warm September days, the leaves beginning to fall from the trees on these windless days.

A walk on Dyroya, looking across to Senja

When Daniels family had originally booked over to Norway we had our fingers crossed for at least one day of calm, we need not have worried though, its been calm for 90% of their stay, hopefully that calm weather can hold on a little longer, it would make the rest of our journey north much smoother sailing! 

It has seemed a little strange to feel like we have been basically abandoning the boat, only having moved her once on a quick trip to Kjotta. Had time allowed we would have loved to take her further, showing Daniels family some of the quiet beautiful places we have explored in the passed weeks, Helloya, Bjarkoy and Meloyvaer. 

Calm evening return sail from Kjotta

We have taken advantage of the opportunity to give Quickstep a bit of an overdue spring clean, unloading lockers before cleaning and repacking. Its nice also to get a proper idea of what stock we have aboard. 

Away from jobs aboard we have had a very relaxed weeks "Holiday", we hired a car in Harstad and have toured by land, reaching walks and sights we just couldn't do by foot. A day trip to Sweden was exciting too, always fun to see a new country. The walks within the Abisko National park were beautiful, we would love to spend more time in Sweden in the future too. They were treated to a great Northern Lights show during their stay too.

Lovely walks on Andorja

We even headed north along the road, so technically we have been further north than Quickstep, we will be sure to change that soon though! While we had the ability with a car we have enjoyed seeing further inland areas, we are unlikely to have a car again during our time in Norway, the inland parts were just as impressive as the coastal scenery. In another life time we would like to spend years walking and cycling through Norway, there is simply too much to see, too little time!  

Flat calm mid September weather

What an experience being back in a house too, having separate rooms to walk between is a bit of a novelty for us! Being able to get up in the morning walk to the kitchen and put the kettle on is far removed from waking up, rolling up our mattresses before digging in the lockers to find the kettle and coffee, starting the generator.... As nice as it has been to have the luxury of space we are quite eager to get back to our lives on Quickstep, it might have its disadvantages but for us the lifestyle is great. 

So tomorrow after returning the car in Harstad via the airport we will get the speed ferry back to Engenes and walk the remaining miles back to Quickstep in Laupstad, we will if time (evenings are noticeably shorter now) and weather permits we might head a few miles north. If that isn't possible we hope to move soon after, overall we are aiming roughly towards Alta, but who knows where we will find to stop. 

Hot autumn days

Norway Part 2

So, what is so different about Papay Arctic Adventure, Norway Part 2?

Well we will try to keep this away from becoming too technical. The RIB or Rigid-hulled Inflatable Boat is mostly used as a recreational craft, rescue craft, dive boat or tender as they are highly manoeuvrable, speedy and there is an added safety due to the inflatable collar. In general anyone taking their boat travelling will opt for a sailing boat, motorboat or even a motorsailer. If you own a RIB you are more likely to take it for a quick spin during the day before returning for the evening in the comfort of your own home.
RIBs almost never are used for sleeping aboard, and in the few occasions they are it will be more of a camping experience, maybe one or two nights in the lifetime of the RIB certainly not as a permanent residence. So when all three of the Papay Arctic Adventure, Part 1 crew lived aboard this was exceptionally unusual.

Overwintering on any boat particularly in Norway is rare indeed, and far from the luxury of space and home comforts you might expect on a yacht we will be living in the two spaces aboard Quickstep. The wheelhouse constructed by our friend Paul offers our first "room", it has two main seats and all the instruments you might expect aboard. There is just height enough to stand. Although with actual floor space of less than a square meter, there is no room for walking around.  As for the "downstairs" (well we like it to sound grand...!) we have room to sit upright on the floor (just), definitely no standing! This is very much a multi use zone, used for sleeping, storing, cooking and just about anything other you can think of... including the all important toilet! The space in the "downstairs" (or through hatch to be precise) is smaller than most cupboards, room for us to lay out and nothing more.

To make living aboard possible we will be installing a heater aboard. With temperatures north of the Arctic Circle in winter regularly being -20C or colder we could not manage without a top quality heater. Unfortunately due to the fact we are taking a RIB well out of its comfort zone and design zone there really is no insulation on board and in fact making the boat as insulated as possible is high up on our list for Paul (the wheelhouse constructor, who perhaps foolishly has agreed to come back for more work!!)

As far as we know, no RIB has ever crossed from the UK to Norway and gone further north than the Lofoten Islands. Besides ourselves in Papay Arctic Adventure, Part 1 we know of no other UK RIB crossing to Norway without a support vessel in place and returning to the UK.We are sad that Daniel Elves cannot join us for Part 2, as the extra pair of eyes at sea can be vital, but we are looking forward to witnessing his own plans come to fruition in the not too distant future...

Nowadays you rarely see voyages of such magnitude being undertaken in anything but brand new boats and kit, we are proud to show that our 16year old RIB, 26 year old stern-drive and 11 year old engine is capable, and that doing these sort of adventures is not just for the rich, although we gratefully acknowledge all the help we have received through our sponsors to make Part 1 possible.

Plans, plans and more plans....

Whats Next? Watch this space!...

While Quickstep is taking shelter from the winter storms on Papay we are planning for her and our next big adventure. Although Daniel Elves will unfortunately not be able to join us, he has lots of plans for his own boat Phantom too.

2015 due to constraints of money and time will likely be spent a little closer to home, we are looking in to exploring the Orkney Islands, and northern Scotland, the Lochinver area particularly appeals! It is somewhere we have both spent a little time in and the thought of exploring by boat, well, it sounds lovely! Maybe a trip through the Caledonian Canal.. lots to consider! We were lucky enough to spend a few nights after returning from Norway in some of the northern isles in Orkney and would absolutely like to further this!

After that we have other plans.... Although we are looking in to logistics I can let you now that Norway is definitely in the planning, perhaps further north than before too....

Where ever we do take Quickstep we will be sure to keep you all updated on our blog with pictures and tales! The blog will be updated throughout this winter too with various news and plans, so please do have a look, and if you want to get in touch with any of us you can also email papayarcticadventure@gmail.com  

The more eagle-eyed of you may indeed notice a new countdown timer! Keep checking back for more details on that trip, we are already very excited about it!

Over this winter we have a few tasks needing done on Quickstep, living aboard for a month has helped to point out some necessary adjustments and changes to make her more comfortable for what we have planned. We're eager to get started on the job list and are hoping to enlist Paul (sorry Paul!) and have her ready for launching earlier next year.

Also why not keep an eye out for the next issue of Powerboat and Rib magazine.... Maybe some familiar faces!

Quickstep is well an truly NOT in retirement!