Number 7a

Spent a night in rousay last night and ventured over to Wyre this morning. Had a fantastic meal at the Taversoe hotel in rousay. Still full! Now having a look round the wyre heritage centre, a great little building, with lots of information.

Number 6

The less travelled side of svartisen glacier.

number 5b

Coming round Stad in convoy, doesn't look as rough as it was, although we were very lucky.
The roughest part of the whole journey was our trips to and from Shetland, and the short journey after leaving Aukra.

Leaving Stronsay

Number 5a

A slight cheat, 5b to follow. Currently sitting at the visitors mooring in Stronsay after a meal at the hotel and a journey by outboard averaging 4knots. Appreciating the scenery and calmness before heading to bed.

Number 4

Sitting on the boat in eday, our first trip since Norway. missing the calm weather we had in Norway, but it feels great to be back at sea!!! May the journey continue!

Number 4

Another picture from in Melfjord such a incredible place its worth several photos!

Number 3

Quickstep, long before she had a wheelhouse built and before she had even landed on Papay....

Number 2

On our return we met with Daniel W parents who presented us with this amazing cake!

Yum!

Keeping in touch

Just beginning to settle back in to life at home.
We are amazed by the kindness and friendliness of everyone we met.
If you would like to get in touch please send us an e-mail at papayarcticadventure@gmail.com

Number 1!

For the next 29 days (the time spent on the adventure) we will upload a picture/video per day. Afraid these are in no particular order!
So without further ado...

That tiny dot in the water is Quickstep, gives an idea of the grandeur of the mountains, also showing the typically busy anchorages we encountered! This was taken in Melfjord, our first anchorage after the Arctic Circle and we spent two nights there exploring the fjord and in total amazement at the beautiful scenery and calm water.
Oh to be back in Norway!

Finishing the adventure

With the weather set to deteriorate over the following days we decided to attempt the final leg of the adventure to Papay. Saying our goodbyes we headed in to a less forgiving sea and battled through waves and swell, in waves that entirely swallows the boat she suddenly felt like a very small boat. Aiming for papay with the promise of calmer seas we went on and as Shetland and Foula disappeared in to the clouds Fair Isle was visible for just a matter of minutes. We were not alone at the sea though and we saw ship after ship as we narrowed down on the small dot of landscape we couldn't make out where it was but we knew it had to be orkney. As land seperated from sea and sea from sky we could make out Papay! A mixture of excitement and sadness came over us. The steady 10knot journey had taken almost 6 hours and we were lucky that the sea flattened down near the end and we could get around 18knots comfortably. Pulling round the corner of the Holm of Papay we saw people waving and with banners at the pier. An amazing welcome back home we were greeted with champagne and familiar friendly faces. A fittingly beautiful end to a beautiful journey. As Sun set on Papay we were reminded of all those who had helped make the journey possible, our sponsors, our friends and family. The people on Papay who have given their time,skills and support in so many ways in which has helped us massively. We are home, but we will be back Norway, as soon as we can! Photos to follow....

Good evening from Papay!

We made it we are home, to an amazing welcome. Time for a kip and we will update you tomorrow!

Home from home

Waking up after a restful sleep in Unst it was time to move on to our original stop at Skeld. We had never been to Unst before so took the time to go for a walk early in the morning. Returning a local dropped by to say hello and see the boat, the interest all along from folk has been lovely to see. He even offered us a lift to the shop, we decided to stretch our legs instead aware we would be at sea soon enough. When walking to the shop we saw the local equivalent of the rib we had taken although it was a rigid tubed rib. A beautiful boat. We sat down to brunch at the shop/cafe and got a few bits for tea before heading back to the boat. As we got the boat shipshape and ready to leave the local who had been down earlier again appeared with some locally baked fruit rolls. we are overwhelmed by folks kindness.
We left Unst in to slightly rougher seas and followed the coast round to Skeld marina. Pulling in to the marina we felt a strange level of sentimentality, it had become a home from home thanks to Jim and Josephine.
It was great to see friends again and Josephine kindly invited us for tea, with regret we turned the offer down instead tucking in to our ready meals bought earlir that day.
In the evening a chap who was camping with his land rover came over to the boat for a drink and chat. A friendly interesting guy who had spent some time in Norway. As we mentioned having met a Brit in Norway we were completely shocked to find out he knew the same guy and indeed was friends with him. A small world?!
It's great to be back at Skeld and we are keeping our eye for weather to head back to papay, almost home, just the last leg to go!

Crossing to Shetland

Awaiting the British midnight we listened to the BBC radio 4s shipping forecast and our hoped for weather window appeared to have disappeared. Setting the alarm for 4am just in case we woke from a disturbed sleep to a fresh breeze outside. Again double checking the online forecasts it seemed as if our hopes of a calm crossing or indeed a crossing at all were dashed. Heading back to bed with mixed feelings, disappointment at the weather as well as feeling happy that we might be able to spend more time exploring Norway.  One of the forecasts updated regularly seemed to be more optimistic than the others for later on, so when we woke at 7am we decided to have a look out to sea, agreeing to turn back if weather wasn't in our favour.
A quick sort of the boat and we departed Hardbakke in to a uncomfortable sea, the sea began to soften but just as quickly we would be back in to short sharp seas with swell over 3 meters. We all agreed, which is important, to carry on for a bit. As we carried on the forecast suggested we were heading in to calmer winds and seas so we made the decision to keep going. The shortrer crossing seemed necessary with the boat taking a battering and we were stuck around the 13knots the entire journey. The oil fields and gas fields were a sight in the daylight, and we were glad not to have the fog which we had on our trip across. Having avoided Seasickness so far it was Amanda's turn to feel a bit rough, and having barely suffered seasickness before she gained a new degree of empathy!
The crossing continued long and unpleasant and the sight of shetlands braes brought a welcome relief. Pulling in to Unst we were officially back on british land and we celebrated the successful crossing by having a fish and chips at the most northernly hotel in Scotland. A tiring day we headed to bed, just catching some folk heading in from fishing we were amazed at the huge cod they had caught, I guess fishing isn't just for the Norwegians!
Being back in Britain gave us time to reflect on our time in Norway, from our arrival in Norway until the moment we left we have met the most beautiful kind people and seen scenery we will never forget. Every second has given us memories we will cherish forever.  we are all sad to have left Norway, an adventure so vital to us all in many ways,  but are all already planning our next journeys there.

Back in British waters!

Arrived in unst! No signal so will update blog tomorrow from Skeld all being well. Safe and well here!

Stunning scenery and quiet islands

With lack of signal I've missed a day or so, to round up we had some lovely walks around selje, including looking further at the monastery and discovering a cave with thanks to another visitor to the island. It was a shame to depart from Selje, it was truly a stunning small island, full of history.
We furthered our journey down the coast aiming for Utvær. With the possibility of heading for Shetland in the coming days we needed to stock up on a few basics mainly water, and looked up the pilot book for nearby anchorages or marinas with a shop or supplies. Finding one we arrived in Færøy, a island similar in size to papay but with a population of only 15. Unfortunately since the pilot book was written there was no longer any of the services offered. We had a walk around the island and all agreed it was idyllic, quiet and scenic. A beautiful spot to stop for any boat. We took the time to get the boat sorted and headed to a nearby marina, Hardbakke on the larger island of Sula is much busier with a restaurant/bar, post office and shop all in walking distance. The scenery is still stunning though, and we had a lovely meal at the restaurant before having a shower and heading to bed prepared for an earlier start. There is a possible weather window tomorrow so we will head out to sea and see how the seas are before contemplating crossing over...

Selje

While the weather not set to improve until much later in the day Daniel and Daniel set off to explore the island while Amanda tidied the boat. The helpful skipper off the Eirin had been advising us on the best times to attempt the peninsula passage. There seemed to be a possible weather window around 8 pm so we waited in the thought we would attempt it then. Whilst we were in the marina a British yacht turned up, we haven't seen many foreign boats at all, so to see a British one was a surprise!
The winds dropped as the evening began and the Eirin and their friends boat were going to be heading south round the peninsula and offered to help guide us round if we wanted. Local knowledge and expertise is something we could not pass by and were massively appreciative for the help offered. We headed off with them the most difficult stretch is around 13 miles long and consists of some of the worst and most dangerous seas in Europe. They picked up the pace sitting around 20-22knots and we followed on, the swell and waves threw us around a bit but the comfort of their knowledge made the passage far easier then we had imagined it could be. We pulled in to a filling station and began the task of putting almost 800ltr aboard. As we filled the bladder on deck it wasn't missed by locals who came down to look at us. Saying our thanks and goodbyes to the crew off the boats that had helped us round we knew without their help we could well still be at the other side. Leaving the filling station we headed to a the nearby island of Selje where we had been told there was an interesting monastery. When we arrived the monastery was in site and despite being late we couldn't resist but to have a look. The monastery was founded around 1100 and was used until approx 1500 when the effects of a fire, the plague and the king left it with a blow it never did recover from. Still a magnificent building and cave.

1st August

After a few hours of mixed weather we pulled in to port at Kvamsøya a small island just above the dreaded peninsula. Discussing with a local what the weather forecast was and how the seas behaved we decided to wait it out for the weekend, a possible early morning or Sunday trip should fingers crossed see us well on course to our next destination.
Accepting the fact we would be around this area for a day or two we made the desicion to go to the neighbouring island in search of a WC and shower. A twenty minute motor and we landed in Sandsøya in an almost empty marina. Nice facilities and a shop nearby we stocked up and had a lazy tea of fish and bacon. As we finished our tea the empty pontoon seemed to become a hive of activity with more boats arriving as we left for a walk. Amazing scenery round the hill, again we were surprised to have the wonderful scenery to ourselves.
When we arrived back we chatted to the skipper of a nearby boat, who once more kindly shared some local knowledge and explained himself and the fellow boats were travelling around the area together, spending his 60th at sea, what better way?!
He also let us know that his yacht club had recently built a stunning boat clubhouse that is free to use by visiting boats. We plan to visit if time permits.

Going sooth again!

The skies cleared for long enough that we could go for a walk last night. It was nice to see the less industrial side of the island. Norway's shops and restaurants are filled with fish and dotted up the coast are several fish related storage and factories. On the whole the number of anchorage and marinas far out weighs the number of factories and so choosing a less industrial marina has been easy. Having rushed in to Vigra we hadn't had the luxury of choosing port. As it happens it wasn't too busy with the national holiday only finishing up around this weekend.  also on a side note we noticed seagulls nesting on the vents from the fish storage plant.... We're now on the sea again we will be facing the infamous Stad peninsula in the coming days, it has such a harsh climate and seas that plans are now well underway in to building a ship tunnel, as for huge periods a year the peninsula is not crossable by ship, large or small. We will need near perfect conditions before we will attempt to pass it down to south Norway. We are aiming for the shortest crossing to Britain, looking around the utsira, Bergen, and Utvær areas. Watch this space...